photo: warmjet
Back in the day, there was a tribe that exclusively surfed a place known as Head Quarters (HQ). This was back in 06'-09'. The crew has pretty much since dispersed. But there are a couple that are still around..BigHackJack, OTF, Derrick, debaser,
prana, Dr. Gucci, Boxhead, and Tegan just to name a few.
A few blogs blossomed in Newport around this time,
Central Shaft,
JDub Sinngles, and
Daily Bread. (that's right I linked my own blog).
Things started with
waterproof film cameras, then moved into the digital world with the
Pentax and
Olympus releases of their first point and shoots.
Fast forward to 2011. Now we have these sessions and memories captured and shared on the internets. And occasionally you can dig up a gem or 2 when you look through some of the history or back pages.
Today I was emailed by WarmJet/DogLeg from a gem that triggered some fond memories from that era. The post can be seen labeled
"Glowing Orbs and Pits" .
I remember this morning as we parked pre-dawn in 1st and 2nd position on Summit. Had the normal coffee and breakfast treats. Surf was combo'd up good per the buoys, and WJ was gracious enough to loan me hi
s Russ Short 3 fin, 6'7" if I remember correct. Wide point up, thick beak, low nose rocker, and concave jets in the tail to force water out the back for maximum thrust. If you've never ridden a
bonzer in punchy, hollow beachbreaks, you are really missing out on some magic. Those days when it's nothing but barrels, bonzer is the way to go, point and shoot.
So my point, we were capturing a time in life that now we're glad we did. We're older now, maybe surf different beaches, maybe not surf as much, or have other things going on in life, but the fact of the matter is...we have these images saved that we can go revisit. While we were getting into capturing these images, we kept talking about how we could look back on these days. Well now is the time we were talking about...and I can speak for those mentioned, it was worth the effort to capture.
